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Pégaü Cuvée Laurence 1998

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at October 18, 2009 in Uncategorized. 2 Comments

I weekenden var jeg forbi en god kammerat, der skænkede op af en Domaine du Pégaü Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Laurence 1998. Fremragende vin.

Domaine du Pégaü Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Laurence 1998
Clear red color with a slightly orange hue. Ripe cherries, licorice, barnyard, herbs, herbes de Provence, lavender and other spices on the nose, that is showing only the very first few signs of age. On the palate there is great black cherries balancing the sweetness and bitterness perfectly, and packing a good, lively acidity. On the midpalate and finish it picks up more rustic notes of tobacco, manure, dusty road, spices and herbs, but is still fairly primary and young in its overall taste profile. Very long taste, that hangs in the mouth for more than a minute. Drinking amazingly well considering its youthful, somewhat rough edges, but the promise for the future is all present. (96)

Tak for skænken.

BYOB blindsmagning med vennerne

Published by

Terkel

at October 1, 2009 in Champagne, Italien, Oversøisk and Rhône. 0 Comments

For et par måneder siden havde jeg inviteret vinklubben på besøg til en BYOB - Bring Your Own Bottle - blindsmagning. Sikke en smagning det blev. Alle havde 2-3 flasker med og vi var godt omkring i både vinområder, druer, årgange og stilarter. Nedenstående er mine noter fra smagningen.

Vi lagde ud med en champagne.

Pol Roger Champagne Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill Brut 1998
Straw yellow color. Robust, masculine nose with aromas of toasted bread, wheat flutes, red apples and peaches. Same masculine still on the taste with intense notes of red apples, brioche and almonds first, and more bitterness, minerals and a metallic note on the finish. I would have preferred it a bit more elegant and lively in the acidity. (92)

Derefter et sæt hvide.

Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 2006
Clear yellow color. Fat, buttery yellow fruit on the nose, plums, peaches, together with some roasted oak and popcorn. On the palate it is concentrated and intense in the fruit, very ripe and warm, and not really having the acidity to carry it. Some oak on the finish doesn’t seem to help the overall picture. I was expecting more from this one. (90)

Diatom Santa Rita Hills Babcock Vineyard Chardonnay 2008
Light yellow color with a green hue. Exotic yellow fruit, pineapple and pears on the nose, but it remains very pure and refined while extremely intense. Similar pure, but intense fruit on the palate, notes of pineapple, pears, plums and synthetic fruit like chewing gum. The purity is further strengthened by the striking acidity and the long after taste. Very nice, but currently totally primary in profile. I’m holding on this for the time being. (93)

Efter at folk havde smagt og gættet lidt, løftede jeg sløret for at den ene var hvid bourgogne, men den anden var fra Californien. Gruppen gættede forkert!

Så til et par mere spøjse hvide indslag. Den første meget flot og spændende, det kunne være rigtig spændende at smage den igen med noget alder på. Den anden kunne det vist være sjovere at smage med en del mindre alder…

Alban Vineyards Roussanne Estate 2006
Golden yellow. Typical Rhone white varietal nose with heavy pine tree, perfume and flowers. On the palate it is concentrated, almost fat with yellow plums and flowers first, great intensity and picking up fine nuances of anise, pine tree, resin and Wunderbaum air freshener on the midpalate and finish. While this is most certainly heavy stuff it got a nice back bone of acidity that makes it refreshing and pleasant drinking. (92)

Château Rieussec R 1985
Amber golden color. Tired nose with notes of caramel, burned sugar and oxidized, mature apples. Better on the palate with notes of figs, mirabelles and flowers first, before the somewhat tired and scratching finish, with some chalk and rubber. This is singing on its last note. (87)

Herefter i gang med de røde. Henrik havde meget gavmildt medbragt de første tre røde til smagningen.

Achaval-Ferrer Finca Mirador 2007
Black color. Tight nose with black berries, bitter chocolate, medicine cabinet and a mineral streak. Primary on the palate with bramble and cowberries being dominating factors. There is nothing neither bombastic nor jammy about this one; in fact it is very cool in the fruit and with huge structure. Amazing power and intensity, and greatly balanced with a powerful acidity and well-integrated tannins. (93)

Achaval-Ferrer Finca Bella Vista 2007
Black color. Explosive nose with black cherry, dark chocolate and licorice. A powerhouse over the palate with fat black fruit, black currant, black cherries at first then licorice, pepper and dark, slightly bitter chocolate on the midpalate and finish. Although greatly balanced the powerful acidity and tannins makes this a painfully young experience for now. Overall it is very delicious with great drinking pleasure and a good promise for the future. (95)

Achaval-Ferrer Finca Altamira 2007
Black color. Restrained nose with black fruit, black currant, black cherries and so on. On the palate the primary black fruit remains a dominating factor, however with a frame of sweet and liqueur-like notes. Very pure and intense on the palate, with good structure and a bit of bitter chocolate on the midpalate which adds to the overall balance. (94)

Virkelig flotte vine alle tre - og meget forskellige i udtrykket.

Herefter begyndte vi hastigt at rykke os bagud i tiden. Først et sæt Bordeaux-blends.

Franciscan Oakville Estate Merlot 1995
Clear red to brick red color. Farmyard, dunghill nose with the more expected notes of blackcurrant and cedar wood seeping out from beneath. On the palate it shows more traditional notes of a nicely matured … with notes of juicy , sweet strawberry and cherry fruit first, licorice and cedar wood on the midpalate and a touch of marzipan on the finish. Delicious, easy drinking pleasure, where all pointy edge and acidity has softened with time, until it now flows like velvety caramel. Nice length. (92)

Fattoria Le Pupille (Elisabetta Geppetti) Saffredi 1998
Dark red color with an orange hue. Concentrated, intense nose with ripe fruit and a very distinct iron and pencil shavings Cabernet note. On the palate it is quite decadent, with juicy, ripe, candied cherries. While on the midpalate and finish it grows increasingly dry and tight, somewhat dusty with notes of tea leafs and green peppers. A rustic feel to the finish. (93)

Derefter to klassiske vine, der blev serveret hver for sig.

Den første skuffede mig en smule. Jeg havde forventet mig meget mere.

Casanova di Neri Brunello di Montalcino Cerretalto 1997
Dark red color with an orange hue. Pure, fragrant red berries, cherries, and some basement on the nose. On the palate it starts very well with juicy cherry fruit first, but when the acidity and tannins kicks in on the midpalate and finish, they become too dominating, almost strangling the pleasure of the wine. Dusty, dry finish. (91)

Anden vin sad tilgengæld lige i skabet. For pokker den smagte godt, helt vild hedonistisk oplevelse.

E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie Château d'Ampuis 1998
Dark red color with a slightly orange hue. Very complex and intense nose with notes of cherries, tomatoes, meat, smoke, iron and olives. Equally exciting on the palate with nuances of chalk, charcuterie, smoked meat and sausages, juicy cherries and olives. On the midpalate it gains in elegance with more notes such as iron and viols, before picking up some oak and vanilla sweetness on the very long finish. Superbly balanced and wildly intense. Drinking absolutely perfect now. (96)

Således forsatte vi turen tilbage i tiden, med en lidt mere traditionel, men ikke nær så interessant vin.

Bodegas Alejandro Fernández Tinto Pesquera Reserva 1990
Dark red, orange color. Sweet nose with loads of red berries, strawberry, and cedary, oaky vanilla. On the palate there is juicy strawberry fruit with lots of sweetness, ripeness and freshness to it. Picks up some cedar wood, dusty herbs and tobacco on the midpalate and finish. The sweetness follows through, but it has backbone with enough acidity and soft tannin to carry it. (92)

Med den efterfølgende vin fik Italien endelig et stort hak på oplevelses listen.

Altesino Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli 1990
Red, browning color. Beautiful nose with aromas of red cherries, tomato, flowers, marzipan and smoke. Juicy and lively on the palate with notes of fresh red fruit, strawberries, cherries and wild forest berries. Some smoke and incense on the midpalate and finish. Very lively acidity and surprisingly powerful tannins make this appear much younger than I would have guessed. Drinking very well and will keep doing so for several more years. (95)

Vi sluttede de røde med en kuriositet som jeg havde fundet frem til i privat handel.

Brotte et Armenier Châteauneuf-du-Pape 1955
Brown, cola color. Mature, slightly tired nose with notes of cow manure, stables, brown sugar, cabbage and rye bread. On the palate it is very mature and completely dominated by tertiary notes, dried fruit, prunes, figs, brown sugar and so on. Still retains some acidity and sweetness which gives the feeling that it is not fully over the hill, but it will definitely be downhill from here on. The experience is more interesting than the drinking pleasure now. (89)

Derefter en række søde vin, der ikke rigtig gjorde noget for mig på aftenen.

Claude Courtois Les Cailloux du Paradis Alkimya 1997
Light browning color showing some particles. Sweet wine gum, pear and brown sugar on the nose. On the palate it feels oxidized, caramelized sugar, brown fallen apples first and rye bread on the finish. It appears dry to maybe slightly off-dry, but definitely not sweet or dessert wine. Furthermore the drinking pleasure is reduced by the hot alcohol which is off balance. Weird wine. (85)

Molino Real Mountain Wine 2004
Clear yellow color. Very sweet yellow fruits, wine gums, pineapples and so on the nose. The mouth feel is heavy, fat and syrupy, but with very juicy yellow plums, pineapples and grapes. Exotic and primary in the fruit, yet with good acidity that balances and adds freshness to the mix. (92)

Caves Vidigal S.A. Reserva Casa do Conego 1991
Clear, light red color. Synthetic nose with rubber and alcohol notes. The taste has some licorice and raisin, but the alcohol knocks this wine of it feet. (81)

Taylor (Fladgate) Porto Vintage 1985
Dark, concentrated red color. Boiled cherry sauce, raisins, prunes and iron on the nose. Similar dried fruit on the taste, raisins and prunes, together with some black, ripe cherries. Hot on the finish, and in my opinion lacking a bit in intensity and concentration. (88)

Meget hyggelig aften i super selskab. Glæder mig til næste smagning med klubben…

To spændende pave-vine

Published by

Terkel

at September 29, 2009 in Rhône. 0 Comments

Jeg var forbi en bekendt for at afhente et par flasker vin vi havde handlet. Da han var på vej ud af døren til en middag var der trukket et par flasker op - ikke af ham selv men en veninde, som havde omhældt begge flasker til mere anonyme anordninger. Vi kunne ikke modstå fristelsen og hoppede derfor i de to flasker for at få identificeret indholdet.

Første vin var:
Roger Sabon Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Prestige 1998
Clear red color with a browning hue. Mature nose with notes of barnyard, manure, fallen fruit and a funky complex frame, it also has some acetone and nail polish which clears with some air. On the palate it got better and better in the glass, picking up weight and intensity in both fruit and tertiary nuances over midpalate and finish. The fruit is sweet, boiled red berries, predominantly raspberries, red cherries and some tomato. Notes of spices, anise, tobacco and dirt road on midpalate and finish. Fine length and perfect balance. (93)

Væsentlig mere udviklet end jeg havde forventet - lidt en overraskelse. Den blev dog bedre og bedre med luft, så jeg vil ikke afvise at den stadigvæk har meget at byde på, men sammenlignet med andre 1998′ere fra Neuf synes jeg bestemt at dette var en af dem der viste sig mest moden.

Anden vin var:
Domaine de la Vieille Julienne Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve 1999
Dark red color with a slightly maturing hue. Restrained nose that does not seem to fully let go of the ripe fruit, raspberry, dark cherries and blueberries, having a mineral streak and after some breathing picks up some smoked bacon. On the palate there is again a restrained feeling to the cool and pure fruit, dark cherries and blueberries. On the midpalate and finish it has a chalky mineral note and licorice. Very elegant with a well built structure that the fruit does fill out and great freshness from the acidity. (94)

Modsat første vin var denne meget mindre udviklet end jeg havde forventet, faktisk er jeg meget overrasket over det af en 1999′er. På det seneste synes jeg faktisk at jeg har ramt flere rigtig flotte 1999′ere, som dog alle har været fint modne nu - denne kunne dog med fordel ligge et par år endnu.

Hyggelig middag i godt selskab

Published by

Terkel

at August 16, 2009 in Tyskland, Italien and Oversøisk. 0 Comments

Vi havde et par gode venner på besøg til lidt aftensmad, og selvfølgelig også lidt god vin.

Vi lagde ud med en flaske ZH til lidt sushi.

Zind-Humbrecht Alsace Clos Jebsal Pinot Gris 2003
Amber golden color. Interesting nose with dried yellow fruit, apricots, peaches and exotic fruits, yellow flowers and minerals, flint and slate. Similar notes on the taste, full of dried fruit backed up by the mineral streak. A sweet note from some residual sugar shows up, although it overall appears almost dry. Unfortunately it falls a bit short on the balance due to lacking acidity, which makes it a bit heavy on it's feet. However, compared to other Zind-Humbrecht 2003s and other Alsace wines from this vintages this is a decent effort. (88)

Derefter kylling i krydderurter og med bagte løg og hvidløg. Hertil stiller jeg selv en Noon Eclipse på bordet, mens gæsterne havde en Flor de Pingus og en San Rustico Amarone med.

Noon Eclipse 2007
Dark red color with a youthful hue. Intense aromas jumping out of the glass with notes of ripe raspberry, cherry and blackberries, as well as licorice, eucalyptus and dark chocolate. Equally intense on the palate with loads of fruit first, very primary but well backed by licorice and dark, bitter chocolate. Actually it has quite the bitter midpalate. Good struture and integrated tannins promises for the future - but drinking really, really well right now. A real pleaser. (93)

Dominio Pingus Flor de Pingus 2001
Dark red color with a brick red hue. Very beautiful and complex nose, with good intensity and purity to the notes, black berries, blackcurrant, blaccurrant bush/leafs, tobacco leafs, damp mould, cigar box and much else. Unfortunately the taste does live up to the expectations the nose leaves one with. It does have good black berries, mostly currant, and some tobacco and cedar wood. But lacks intensity and finishes short of amazing. Great balance, and probably not going to improve from here on. Still I imagine it will not change much over the next five or so years, so no need to hurry. (91)

San Rustico Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Vigneti del Gaso 2000
Bright, medium red color. Interesting nose with red cherry, viols, honeysuckle, liqueur and a decadent, oxidized fruit note. Similar notes on the palate, where the red cherry is pure and fresh but the finish clouds up from the decandet fruit notes and some liqueur and heat. Fine struture and acidity levels. (89)

Til slut en jordbærtrifli matchet til følgende søde tysker.

Müller-Catoir Haardter Bürgergarten Rieslaner Beerenauslese 2003
Dark, golden straw to amber color. Intense, heavy aromas of exotic fruit like pineapples and mangos entwined with dried fruit, apricots and sultana raisins over restrained mineral notes. Syrupy mouth feel with oily viscosity and loads of residual sugar, fairly well balanced with acidity, which keeps this wine from becoming cloying and vulgar. The taste is of overripe exotic fruits, loads of nuances of pineapples, mangos and papayas. It remains very primary all the way over the long finish. (93)

Dejlig aften med super hyggeligt selskab

Pre-Chateauneuf du Pape-turs-smagning

Published by

Terkel

at August 15, 2009 in Rhône. 0 Comments

Med udsigter til at 2007 kan være en exceptionel årgang i Chateauneuf du Pape måtte året vinrejse havde denne destination. Inden turen skulle der dog varmes op med lidt flasker, i form af en hygge middag med rejsekammeraterne, hvor alle spædede til med et par flasker. Vi havde i et vist omfang taget flasker med lidt alder fra producenter som vi skulle besøge på turen.

Le Vieux Donjon Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2006
Dark red color with a youthful purple hue. Intense, potent nose with loads of raspberry, ripe cherry, pepper, garrigue, herbs and licorice. Similar primary red fruit, raspberries on the palate, but also a note of blueberry. More nuanced midpalate and finish with tobacco, licorice, plums, pepper and acetone. Powerful acidity and tannins, but all in perfect balance. Exiting wine which should develop well for many years. (93)

Domaine de la Charbonnière Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Vieilles Vignes 2000
Dark red color with a brick red hue. Barnyard, dung heap, crushed red berries on the decadent nose. On the palate it is polished with notes of viols, red berries, boiled raspberry and red cherry. It becomes more rustic and a bit messy on the midpalate and finish, with notes of cabbage and dust. (91)

La Bastide Saint-Dominique Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Secrets de Pignan 2001
Clear red color with a brick red hue. Open nose with notes of flowers, roses, raspberries and a bit of raisin. Juicy, sweet raspberries, raisins and prunes on the palate, slightly boiled candied, and with some spices, like anise. Finely balanced and good length, but a bit simple and linear on the palate. (91)

Domaine Paul Autard Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée La Cote Ronde 2000
Dark red color in the center with a brick red hue. Sweet raspberry fruit, with notes of boiled candies, farmyard roses, anises, and Herbes de Provence, on the intense nose. Similarly loads of primary red fruit on the palate, raspberries, strawberries and cherries. Very good intensity and concentration, with some rustic dust, spices and nail polish on the finish. (92)

Bosquet des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape Chante Le Merle Vieilles Vignes 2001
Brown color. Very mature nose with prunes, raisins, rustic dust and spices, and a note of gasoline. Similar palate with prunes, tobacco, herbs, farmyard, soya and balsamic vinegar. Still alive, but seemed a bit tired and the acidity and tannins seems to outlive the fruit in a couple of years. Finish up now. (89)

Bosquet des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Grenache 1998
Dark red color, browning hue. Mature nose with several tertiary notes, red fruit candy, vitamin pill, rustic farmyard and orange peel. On the taste it showed prunes, rye bread and tobacco at first, but with some air it found some red candied fruit. Very feminine structure and elegance which draws some parallels to Burgundian pinot. Still good, but fully mature so drink over the next couple of years. (92)

Le Clos du Caillou Châteauneuf-du-Pape Domaine du Caillou 1998
Dark red color with an orange hue. Sweet, fresh pipe tobacco, capriole, pure raspberry, tomato and viols. Nuanced flower notes on the midpalate and, licorice and flower tobacco on the finish. Beautiful, pure, elegant and refined in the flavours. Superbly balanced and amazing length. Perfectly mature, yet surprisingly lively. Serious drinking pleasure right now. (94)

Domaine de Beaurenard Châteauneuf-du-Pape Boisrenard 1998
Dark red color with slight orange rim. Barnyard, rustic nose with notes of dungheap, cow manure, raspberries, wild strawberries, sweet tobacco and exotic flowers, viols and farmyard roses. Amazingly intense yet elegant at once. Equally intense on the palate with lots of sweet fruit, raspberries and wild strawberries. It remains pure and fresh, even with the sweetness and concentration. Tobacco, rustic dust and leather, and exotic spices and flowers on the midpalate and finish. Very nuanced and great length. Perfect balance with lively acidity complete the picture and makes this sexy and stunning, while easily accessible. (96)

Domaine Bois de Boursan Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée des Felix 1999
Dark color with slightly browning rim. Intense, potent nose with youthful red berries, strawberry and raspberry. On the palate the sweet berries again dominate, with a slightly jammy edge and a touch of vanilla. Great balance between the fruit and acidity lift the wine and adds structure. More complexity on the finish with notes of licorice and iron. (93)

Efter denne middag var det blot at se frem til selve turen…

Tirsdags hygge

Published by

Terkel

at August 5, 2009 in Champagne and Italien. 0 Comments

Midt i en lang og lun sommer var lysten til god vin og mad stor. Derfor havde jeg allieret mig med Canan og Erik til lidt vinoplevelser en stille tirsdag aften. Vi lagde ud med to vine som opvarmning, mens vi aftalte hvad resten af aftenen skulle stå på.

Argiano Brunello di Montalcino 1995
Medium red color. Delicate, fine aromas with notes of red cherries and sweet vanilla. Equally delicate on the palate with sweet red cherry fruit, slightly bitter chocolate and leather. A bit of sweet vanilla on the finish, but lacks intensity on the midpalate and finish. Perfect maturity now, with superbly balanced acidity. (90)
Brunelli Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 1997
Dark red color. Ripe, decadent black cherries and licorice on the nose which has good intensity. Juicy and full-bodied taste with dark fruit, a touch of cherry liqueur, dark chocolate, prunes and licorice. Good length and refreshing acidity. Somewhat hot on the finish. Drinking very well and perfectly mature now. (92)

Beslutningen blev 2 gange Antinori 2004 og 2 gange amarone. Sammen med de to Antinori vine fik vi også lidt skøn mad på bordet, som Canan har lavet.

Antinori Tignanello 2004
Dark red color. Warm, ripe black berries, cherries, licorice on the nose. A lot seems to be hiding just under the surface, but it seems to be in a closed phase right now. Juicy black fruit on the palate, cherries and black currant, licorice, marzipan and cherry stone bitterness. Full-bodied, good intensity, great structure and balance. Everything seems to be in place but really needs more time for now. (93)
Antinori Solaia 2004
Dark red color. Refined, cool black currant on the nose, very good intensity and notes of vanilla and fruit liqueur – which is the only note that brings me out of Bordeaux. Very pure black currant fruit on the palate, delicious. Good structure, acidity and lots of dryness on the finish. However the fruit and secondary flavours reaches all the way on the finish, making it a great wine. (95)

Spændende sæt, der i mine øjne viste Solaias overlegenhed, omend Tignanello var en flot vin (og endnu bedre på anden dagen).

Marion Amarone della Valpolicella 2004
Almost black color. Volatile acidity on the nose with notes of nail polish and vanquish at first, with some air comes notes of dark cherries, banana and vanilla. Very primary, dominated by ripe, black berries, cherries, plums and prunes. There is a note of peaches on the midpalate which is interesting – although a bit weird. Very juicy and intense in the fruit, yet great structure and balance which promises well for the future. It will be very interesting to see how this develops. (94)
Stefano Accordini Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Vigneto Il Fornetto 2000
Dark red color. The complex aromas jump out of the glass, and leaves me stunned for a second – wow. Notes of raisins, prunes, decadent cherries, sweetness, licorice and dill. Equally intense and concentrated on the palate with dark ripe cherries, prunes, raisins, licorice. Over the midpalate the taste turns a bit cherry liqueur-like with a nuance of milk chocolate. Finally good length, but with some heat. This was amazing and wild, only drawback is the slightly excessive heat on the finish. (96)

Den sidste amarone slå virkelig benene væk under mig. Vildt intense næse, der øjeblikkeligt hev mig ind i en dimension af nydelse og fornøjelse - hvilken oplevelse. Efterfølgende har jeg fået blod på tanen og min samling af amarone flasker er vokset…

Til slut til osten drak vi en meget mineralsk og ung Dom Perignon 1990.

Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon 1990
Straw yellow color. Inviting nose with aromas of yellow plums, yellow apples, lemons, roasted oak, freshly grinded coffee beans and sea salt. Very youthful, tight taste, dominated by mineral notes of wet stones and sea salt, together with tight acidic lemon, lemon soda and green apple fruit. Intense in the flavours, very well-balanced and super fresh. Very long delicious taste. Drinking very well, but give it some time as it is painfully young and tight. (95)

Gid hver tirsdag aften endte som denne…

Champagne brunch

Published by

Terkel

at May 9, 2009 in Champagne, Oversøisk and Pinot Noir. 0 Comments

Det er efterhånden blevet en fast tradition for mig at jeg holder Champagne brunch mellem jul og nytår. Det er en tradition jeg har holdt fast i fordi det er en fremragende lejlighed til at smage en masse Champagne. Så efter en tidlig morgen i køkkenet kom 7 vinvenner på besøg til en blanding af brunch, sushi og tapas - og selvfølgelig masser af champagne. Noter på vinen følger.

Jean Vesselle Champagne Brut Réserve
Light yellow color. Delicate nose with green apples, yellow plums and a bit of toast. Nice smooth and intense bubles, and a good deal of acidity on the finish. The fruit is lemons and green apples, packing lots of acidity and a bit of bitterness that leaves a slightly metallic finish. Pure and sharp around the edges, give it some time after buying to soften it up a bit. (87)

Josep Maria Raventós i Blanc Cava Gran Reserva Personal Brut Nature 1998
Fine yellow color. Toasted, buttery nose with fat plum, apples and some nuts. Similar fat fruit on the palate packing lots of secondary notes of butter, nuts and toasted bread. There is also a note of milk product on the midpalate like buttermilk. Nice bubbles and acidity balances this win for an overall great impression. (91)

Launois Pere et Fils Champagne Special Club 2000
Straw yellow color. Perfumed nose with notes of almonds, butter and red apples. Very robust and masculine appearance with windfall apples, rye bread and yeast from freshly fermented wheat baguettes and French loaf. But the fine bubbles and acidity lift the overall experience rather than drowning the finesses of the wine. Very nice, and probably ready for drinking now. (93)

Pierre Gimonnet Champagne Spécial Club 1er Cru 1999
Fine yellow color. Loads of yellow fruit on the nose, plums, apples and lemon – very fresh. Very tight on the palate, packing a powerful acidity and youthful bubbles that dominate the taste impression now. After a while in the glass it softens up a bit but remains green apples, lemon and yellow flowers. Good length. Give it time, as it has great potential. (92)

Vilmart Champagne Coeur de Cuvée 2000
Fine yellow color. Holding back a little on the nose at first but quickly opens up to extremely intense notes of yellow plums, butter, popcorn and flowers. On the palate equally powerful and intense with burned sugar, fat yellow plum, freshly baked French loaf and yellow flowers. Very juicy and smooth, opulent and wild, yet refined and tasty. Long taste and lively acidity, this is huge. (95)

Claude Cazals Champagne Clos Cazals Blanc de Blancs 1998
Fine yellow color. The nose has yeast, ripe apple and salt water. On the palate it has green apples and lemon, it remains tight and driven by acidity, with a slight touch of metal and salt on the finish. Very young and desperately needs cellaring, maybe even a bit closed - which is surprising for me when considering the vintage. Interesting champagne, which I would love to taste again in the future. (93)

Taittinger Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne 1995
Light yellow color. Youthful nose with green apples, mirabelles, freshly roasted and grinded coffee beans, cocoa and salt, continues to grow in intensity. Powerful, huge mouth-fill with fat yellow plums, ripe apples, toast and yeast. Lively acidity and bubbles that frames the juicy fruit. Very tasty and sexy with smooth, velvet-like taste, yet dancing on the acidity underneath. Stunning wine that drinks well now, but no need to hurry. (96)

Taittinger Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne 1996
Light yellow color. Fresh nose with aromas of newly grinded coffee beans, toast, yellow plums, apples and baguettes. Equally fresh yellow fruit on the palate, yellow plums, apples and lemons, very intense and good robustness. Loads of fruit first then more nuanced midpalate with nuts, butter, popcorn and so on filling the whole spectrum. Great bubbles and a perfectly balanced taste with a long, long finish. Striking acidity which promises for a long life ahead for this wine. Although this is still quite youthful in appearance, it is a pure pleasure to drink it now. However if possible save it for later where this should be a reference champagne or at least reference Comtes de Champagne. (97)

Krug Champagne Brut 1995
Light straw yellow color. Wheat baguettes, nuts, walnuts, newly grinded butter or buttered milk on the nose. Very sexy mousse covers the mouth. Notes of maribelles, sweet lemons, wheat bread, walnuts, varnish, lanoline and minerals. Leaves impressions of a good white burgundy. Great length, body and balance. Overall a very nice wine. (95)

Efter champagnerne var der også lidt overraskelser medbragt af gæsterne. Følgende er noter på disse bonus flasker.

Bollinger Coteaux Champenois La Côte aux Enfants 1996
Cloudy orange color, like unclear bog water. Interesting nose with good intense nuances of rosehip, strawberry, roses, nail polish and chemicals. Weaker palate with notes of roses, spices and nail polish. Ok length. Ends up being a bit disjointed and weird. Left me unimpressed, and I doubt it will improve. (85)

Calera Jensen Vineyard Pinot Noir 2003
Light red color with a brick red hue. Sweat red fruit on the nose packing notes of strawberry, boiled candies, herbs and anise. Similar taste, with great power and intensity, lots of sweetness in the fruit, strawberries, redcurrant and raspberries, slight boiled. A bit more nuanced on the midpalate and finish with some spice, caramel and a bit of heat from alcohol. Nice length. Easy drinking. (93)

Mollydooker Enchanted Path 2005
Black color with a thin reddish rim. Intense nose with blackcurrant and blackberry liqueur, licorice, olives and ink. On the palate it is packing layers of dark fruit, blackcurrant and blackberry, somewhat liqueur like. Notes of chocolate, licorice and olives on the midpalate and finish. Very smooth and extremely intense and concentrated. Great length and tannins. Powerful wine that still benefits from time and air to bring out the elegance hiding underneath all the muscle and primary fruit. (94)

Descendientes de José Palacios Bierzo Pétalos 2007
Dark red color with a purple hue. Fat red cherry and redcurrant, spices and a chemical plastic-like note on the nose. More earthy on the palate with strawberry, blackcurrant, green stems and leafs, some tobacco on the midpalate. Tight and restrained, with a good deal of tannins on the finish. Good wine with great potential. (90)

Mission Hill Riesling Icewine Reserve 2001
Amber color. Aromas of apricots, caramel, honey, strawberry and lanoline. Very sweet, syrupy mouth feel, with fruit notes of oranges and apricots. Very good intensity and concentration, but I’m lacking a little acidity to balance the wine and make it a bit more elegant. (90)

Tak for de ekstra flasker, der var spændende på vær sin måde.

En blind riesling fra Alsace

Published by

Terkel

at April 10, 2009 in Riesling. 0 Comments

Sidste lørdag blev jeg om eftermiddagen udfordret til at gætte følgende vin blindt.

Charles et Dominique Frey Alsace Riesling Vieilles Vignes 2006
Light yellow color. Fragile restrained nose with notes of white pear, flowers and perfume. Some bitter grapefruit and lemon on the taste, but it seems somewhat closed. As the fruit and perfume is muted on the palate the acidity and bitterness dominates. Give this time to open up and hope for more in the future. (84)

Jeg fandt vinen meget svær at gætte, specielt fordi jeg fandt den forholdvis lukket i både næse og smag mht. frugt oplevelser. Det var dog alligevel hyggeligt og en god måde at bruge eftermiddag inden første halvleg af en horisontal smagning af Chateauneuf du Pape 2003 - mere herfra følger…

30 års fødselsdag

Published by

Terkel

at April 10, 2009 in Champagne, Italien, Bordeaux and Rhône. 0 Comments

Så kom dagen hvor jeg skulle fejre min 30 års fødselsdag. I flere måneder i forvejen har jeg med jævne mellemrum gået og spekuleret på hvad jeg skulle bruge dagen til og hvordan jeg skulle fejre det. Med min interesse for vin og mad var der selvfølgelig flere muligheder oppe der var centreret omkring en vinsmagning eller et god middag. Hvad kunne imidlertid være bedre en begge dele - samtidig. Derfor havde jeg inviteret 9 af mine bedste venner på Restauran Cofoco hvor jeg havde lavet en aftale om at tage et par flasker af samme alder som mig med til middagen.

Vi havde fået vores eget lille hjørne af restauranten og havde selv fuld kontrol over serveringen af vinene, som jeg havde fundet frem fra min samling. Til første ret nød vi et par flasker champagne.

Lanson Champagne Brut 1979
(From magnum) Fine straw colored. Very fresh, youthful nose with red apples, rye bread, nuts, newly grinded coffee beans and mint leafs. Very good mousse, small bubbles. The taste starts with mashed, sweet apples, but gains more masculine notes of nuts, coffee and rye bread on the midpalate and finish. Good length and acidity, very fresh. Appeared so youthful that I would even consider cellaring this for several more years. Amazing. (94)

Diebolt-Vallois Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs 1979
Amber colored with fine bubbles. The nose is oxidized, but also showing apples, slightly brown and caramel. The acidity and bubbles are still good and giving a great frame, but the palate is dominated by oxidized, mature and masculine notes. Notes of rye bread and brown apples. (89)

Derefter som et lille mellemspil inden hovedretten smagte vi på hvad årgangen kunne bidrage med i Bordeaux.

Château Trotte Vieille 1979
Fine red center with a brown hue. On the nose it has fragile black currant and black berry, more intense notes of moist earth and basement. A bit fragile first on the palate with earth and tobacco, then gains more sweetness on over the midpalate and finish with notes of cedar wood and prunes. Classic Bordeaux, but tired and lacking the tannic bite. (88)

Château Batailley 1979
Fine red center with a brown hue. The nose has earth, bushes, undergrowth, cedar wood, cigar and vanilla. More juicy, red fruit first on the palate. Some cigar and cedar wood on the midpalate, prunes and earth on the finish. Everything is still coming together in this wine, but fully mature now. (89)

Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1979
Fine red center with a slightly brown hue. Pure, refined black currant bush with notes of mint, earth and cedar on the sweet nose. Very fresh and juicy black currant and earth first on the palate. More leafs, cedar and tobacco on the midpalate and finish. It is refined, yet intense on the palate with good lively acidity and velvety tannins. Ready to drink now but still vibrant and lively. (93)

Samt en enkelt stående italiener.

Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barolo Riserva 1979
Orange color from center to rim. Rustic country-side nose with barn, tar, cabbage, ammonium chloride licorice and roses. Still some red cherry first on the palate, but very rustic on the midpalate and finish with notes of tar, licorice and camphor. Very good length and super balanced with acidity and dryness. All together a very nice wine, where the complete picture is better than the elements apart. (92)

Mine forventninger til de røde vine blev overgået, da de alle præsenterede sig ganske udmærket. Jeg havde dog alligevel valgt noget mere sikkert til hovedretten. Derfor stod den på to favoritter da næste ret kom på bordet.

Domaine Bois de Boursan Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée des Felix 2000
(From magnum) Red center with an orange rim. Intense nose with cooked raspberry fruit, barn, dunghill, herbs and tobacco. Super juicy and lively in the mouth, with great red berry fruit, raspberry and strawberry, containing loads of warmth. More tertiary notes on the midpalate and finish where complex nuances of licorice, horse, fur, herbs and wild country-side flowers. Lots of rustic notes of animals and farmyards, yet a refined and pure sweet fruit going from first to end in the mouth, all being lifted by a vibrant acidity. Very good. (96)

Clos Saint Jean Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Combe des Fous 2003
Red color from center to rim. Very nice aromas of wild blackberries in soured milk and with notes of medicine and gauze makes this a nuance and complex nose. On the palate the fruit is intense and concentrated with raspberry and blackberries. More finesse on the midpalate and finish with nuances of sweet licorice, iron and barnyard. Very good length and nicely integrated powerful tannins. (95)

Endnu et lille mellemspil inden desserten.

Moulin Touchais Coteaux du Layon 1979
Amber color. The nose is somewhat oxidized with notes of apple juicy, rye bread and burned caramel. More elegant on the palate with notes of pears, apricots and pineapple. On the finish there a note of rubber. Nice balance between acidity and sweetness, well matured now. Fine length. (90)

På trods af sødmen i vinene er jeg ikke helt sikker på at ville mene at den ville kunne bære en rigtig sød dessert. Derfor to mere sikre valg til desserten.

Kopke Porto Colheita 1979
Cola brown color. The nose has raisins, caramel and some alcohol. In the mouth it is creamy, leaving a fat, syrupy impression, a bit too heavy on the alcohol warmth. Notes of Raisins and caramel, fine, but lacking a bit of complexity. (88)

Hutcheson Porto Colheita 1979
Cola brown color. Nice nose with caramel, raisins and plums. Similarly good on the palate, with raisins, prunes, honey and burned caramel. Lots of fatness and mouth fill, with good body and structure, and a touch of alcohol on the finish. (90)

En skøn middag i selskab med gode venner - findes der noget bedre? Jeg tror det ikke. Jeg kan i hvert fald ikke forestille mig en bedre måde at fejre min fødselsdag på.

Around the world

Published by

Terkel

at March 9, 2009 in Italien, Champagne, Bordeaux, Oversøisk, Bourgogne and Pinot Noir. 2 Comments

For lidt over en uge siden var jeg med til en spændende smagning i Copenhagen Tasting Group. Smagningen indeholdt en række unikke vine der alle blev smagt blindt. I løbet af smagning blev der også serveret nogle dejlige hjemmelavede retter.

Første sæt: Rosé Champagne

Vi lagde ud med to rosé champagner. De var begge spændende og viste hvor seriøs rosé Champagne kan være trods placeringen lidt i skyggen af de hvide Champagner.

Perrier-Jouët Champagne Brut Rosé Belle Epoque 1982
Brown salmon color. Oxidized nose with paint flakes, orange peel, rust and metal. Seems a bit tired on the nose, but the taste surprises by being much more alive. Especially the acidity is lifting the taste, making it appear fresh and elegant. Tastes of mature brown apples, red soda pop and brown sugar. Appears sweet over the whole palate. (92)

Perrier-Jouët Champagne Brut Rosé Belle Epoque 1988
Brown salmon color. Oxidized nose with leather, orange peel, brown apples, vanilla, licorice and rust. Masculine appearance on the palate, with very forward, fat, mature apples, caramel, brown sugar and rye bread, very balanced by fine acidity. (91)

Anden sæt: Hvid Champagne

Derefter to hvide champagner.

Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon 1969
Amber color. Very intense and delicious nose with nectarines, sherry notes and paint remover. Deliciously creamy palate and good mousse, delicate notes of apples toasted bread caramel, almonds and marzipan. Finishes with a mineral note. Amazing length. Lots of power and superb balance makes this wine an amazing glass. (94)

Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon 1976
Amber color. Slightly oxidized fruit, apples, brown sugar, vanilla and coconut oil on the nose. Very refreshing palate, creamy, smooth but with power and intensity to the masculine fat fruit, apples, yellow plums, backed by notes of toasted bread, nuts, vanilla and melted butter. Long finish that adds notes of rye bread and caramel to the experience. The nuanced palate seems to be floating on a fundament of mousse and acidity that is perfectly in sync with the rest. Astonishing wine. (96)

Her var vi virkelig i toppen af hvad der fremstilles af Champagne i min referenceramme - dejlige flasker!

Tredje sæt: Barolo 1

En brat opvågning i dette skift til røde vine, alle drevet af voldsomme tanniner og en itu-rivende tørhed.

Luciano Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis 2001
Dark red color with a brick red hue. Potent nose with dark ripe cherries, blackcurrant , coconut, vanilla, sun oil and a note of banana. Very tight and brooding on the palate, intense fruit, dark berries, fireplace, burned charcoal and oil barrel. Some licorice on the finish. Good length. The very dominating, rasping acidity leaves the mouth completely dry. This wine shows lots of potential but needs time, at this point it is fairly academic. (94)

Luciano Sandrone Barolo Le Vigne 2001
Dark red color with a red hue. Sweet dark fruit dominates the nose that also has notes of vanilla, oak, licorice and medicine cabinet. Sweet but very pure fruit first, dark berries, very ripe cherries, on the midpalate the fruit is joined by licorice and oil. Very acidic and with powerful tannins leaves a dry palate. The balance seems perfect, so leave this alone for many more years. (92)

Luciano Sandrone Barolo Le Vigne 2000
Dark red color with an orange hue. Very pure and elegant fruit on the nose, very restrained yet intense. Very juicy red fruit, red cherry and raspberry, on the palate joined by tomatoes, leather, herbs and tobacco on the midpalate and finish. Very well balanced and drinking really well. The acidity is still powerful, but only to the extent that lifts the wine from the tongue and gets the mouth water flowing. Great length. (94)

Fjerde sæt: Barolo 2

Endnu et sæt Sandrone vine. Underligt nok var der ingen gæt på Barolo blandt smagerne. Jeg følte at tanninerne og tørheden i dette sæt gav væsentligt mere plads til en klar rød frugt, end det var tilfældet i ovenstående sæt.

Luciano Sandrone Barolo Le Vigne 1998
Dark red color with a browning hue. Very fruit driven nose, raspberry, strawberry and fruitcake, with some secondary notes of barn and turpentine. Full bodied, juicy, with red berries and some plum first, midpalate with tobacco and rustic barn, very dry, bitter and scratchy on the finish. The fruit sweetness lasts from start to finish. (91)

Luciano Sandrone Barolo Le Vigne 1999
Dark red color slightly browning on the hue. Intense aromas, some milk product, loads of berries, red fruit, boiled candies and acetone. Very fruity and juicy with lots of warmth, but packing some tobacco and herbs on the midpalate and finish. Very intense and with striking acidity making the wine elegant and fresh. Superb balance and drinking beautifully. (95)

Luciano Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis 1999
Dark red color with an orange hue. Sweet fruit nose with red cherries, strawberry, boiled fruits and marzipan. Similar notes on the palate with red berries, tobacco, rustic barnyard and flowers. Dry and rustic wine with lots of acidity and tannins. Very good length. (94)

Femte sæt: Around the world

Jesper lavede lidt sjov med os efter forrige sæt og spillede en bid af Aquas Around the world. Dette var også et hint til dette sæt, men den nøjagtige kombination af vine var der vist ikke nogen der fik rigtig. Selv var jeg på Bordeaux blends lavet uden for Europa, mens mange andre have minimum én vin i sættet som Bordeaux.

Château Sociando-Mallet 1990
Dark red color with a brick red hue. Classic Bordeaux nose with pure blackcurrant, stems, graphite, green peppers and fur. Intense taste with a youthful tannic grip. Fresh and pure black currant fruit first, then some green pepper and tobacco on the midpalate and finish. The finish loses a bit of the intensity and packs quite a lot of acidity. (91)

Penfolds Grange 1990
Dark red color slightly orange on the rim. Concentrated nose with oak, vanilla, fur and an intense note of dill. Sweet, warm black fruit on the palate, very intense and concentrated – a full bodied wine. It has good nuances of berries in creamy vanilla pudding, dill, herbs and a bit of mint. Super length where the fruit carries through and the tannins deliver a refreshing backbone for all the power this wine has. Quite interesting and drinks very well, although it is intellectually challenging – especially with the dill note. (94)

Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 1990
Clear, medium red color with an orange hue. Aromas of blackcurrant, green peppers, freshly mown grass, mint and camphor. Juicy blackcurrant fruit first on the palate, on the midpalate water from boiled potatoes, stems, cherries and bitterness. Good length and very dry finish. (90)

Sjette sæt: Bourgogne

Her var der ikke meget tvivl - 2 fantatiske Bourgogner og desværre én med prop.

Domaine Joseph Roty Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru Très Vieilles Vignes 1989
Havde desværre prop.

Domaine Joseph Roty Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru Très Vieilles Vignes 1990
Medium red color with a browning hue. Very fragile nose of tea, leather, petrol turpentine. More fresh on the palate with red fruit, strawberry and raspberry, becoming more rustic farm-like diffuse on the midpalate and finish. The fruit lasts over the finish and the nuances and complexity of the notes are very interesting. (93)

Mommessin Clos de Tart Grand Cru 1990
Light orange color. Intense, amazing nose of feminine yet rustic rosehip, raspberry, boiled candy and flowers petals. Similar stringent purity on the palate, amazing red fruit and delicate nuances of country-side flowers, wild berries and barnyards. A good deal of acidity and tannin which makes the balance perfect and the elegances is absolutely fabulous. Amazing wine. (96)

Syvende sæt: Bordeaux

Jeg var allerede dybt imponeret over de flasker der havde været serveret inden dette sæt, men da disse to vine blev afsløret sad jeg alligevel med kæben i skødet. Wow! Jeg var ikke i nærheden af at være 50 år tilbage i tiden, hold da op hvor de havde holdt sig godt.

Château Mouton Rothschild 1955
Reddish center with a brown hue. The nose shows signs of maturity, cabbage, orange peel, brown sugar and prunes. Similar palate which packs a load of nuances that keeps giving. Pencil lead, leather, cigar box, prunes, rust and wet forest floor. Incredible balance where everything just fits perfectly. A very classic Bordeaux – at its very best. (95)

Château Cheval Blanc 1955
Chestnut color. Absurdly good nose with prunes, rust, pencil shavings, cabbage and forest floor. And the taste matches the nose – wow. Super red berries, tobacco, leather, cedar wood, milk chocolate and cigars. Smooth like velvet and juicy sweetness. Sexy and elegant, just perfect. All elements are perfectly balanced, and it finds an expression between young purity and mature nuances. It is impressive have excellent this wine is, it almost leaves me with goose bumps. (98)

Cheval Blanc 1955 er en mulig ny referenceramme for Bordeaux for mig. Fantastisk vin.

Ottende sæt: Dessert

Derefter til desserten som ledsagede følgende lækre sag.

Château Rieussec 2001
Amber golden color. The super intense nose is jumping out of the glass with exotic fruits, pineapple, mango, coconut, cream caramel and spices. Syrup like mouth feel, with super intense notes of honey, exotic fruits, apricots, orange peels, spices and mushrooms. A crisp, precise acidity that lifts this heavy beast off the tongue and makes it dance in the mouth. The taste just goes on and on. Super impressive. (97)

Stor vin, der holder mange, mange år endnu.

En stor tak til Jesper for en fantastisk smagning, samt alle smagerne for en vildt underholdende aften.

Vin osv.

Pégaü Cuvée Laurence 1998

BYOB blindsmagning med vennerne

To spændende pave-vine

Hyggelig middag i godt selskab

Pre-Chateauneuf du Pape-turs-smagning

Tirsdags hygge

Champagne brunch

En blind riesling fra Alsace

30 års fødselsdag

Around the world

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